After about 5 months of development I have finally had some time to put ideas on getting the most out of the North Sails.
Upwind technique:
-More vang improves VMG upwind. With a 16:1 you should need moderate tension once up and foiling and very tight tension upwind once fully powered up.
-Less vang is better for speed, IE when trying to get to one side of the course or for getting through another boat.
-Once fully powered up, IE TWS greater than 14-15kts max vang
-Downhaul should be fairly loose in marginal conditions, as the TWS increases the downhaul should be pulled until you can sail with a full sail. If your weather tell tales are luffing then you need more downhaul, if your leeward tell tales are luffing ease the downhaul.
-Once fully overpowered upwind max downhaul and vang as hard as you can pull
-Outhaul about 150mm off boom in light winds and 100mm in breeze, never tighter than 100mm
-Shroud tension tighter for power, looser if overpowered, typically leeward shroud just loose
-Flat to slight heel to weather in light wind to power rig up as much as possible. More heel to weather as the windspeed increases. Heel to weather more for high mode and flatter for fast mode. Keep in mind that more heel reduces the apparent wind angle and the effective sail area.
-Ride height as high as possible without rudder ventilating
Downwind technique:
-Outhaul eased LOTS. Probably foot of the sail 200-250mm from boom, 8mm bungee wrapped around leech helps the outhaul ease, as does Ultra High Molecular Weight Plastic Tape under your boom and large clew tie lines or a Velcro strap.
-Vang cracked, but not too much. Just enough to make gybing easier seems about right.
-C-Ham eased till there are just wrinkles on luff in light wind, a little less in breeze.
-When heating up for speed add a little more downhaul especially if fully powered up.
-Hike when enough pressure to hike against and still feel good apparent wind pressure, but don't make it a priority to hike unless you can hike hard to increase speed and carry the building apparent windspeed down to a similar angle as a non-hiking angle.
-Heel is flat in most wind conditions, but slight to weather once hiking hard
-Ride height as high as one dares depending on the windspeed
Taking a page from big boat racing, a good set of targets can be helpful. I am using this as my starting point. Obviously a good guess is required on the approximate windspeed. Downwind Speeds are a little more approximate, maybe the top guys are a few knots quicker downwind as the breeze increases:
I'd be happy to hear peoples comments on what makes them go faster.
5 comments:
Any comments on mast rake?
You mention loosening the shrouds to de-power. So do you know if this allows the middle of the mast to bend to windward or to leeward?
Hi Simon- Good question. I have not done a whole lot of two boat testing with rake (I removed my chainplates to save weight and adjust rake with my mast stump screw). I set my boat up for a neutral helm upwind, but cannot be sure that is the fastest. More rake maybe faster upwind, but it will hurt your downwind speed and maneuvers.
RE rig tension- easing shroud tension allows the mast to bend easier depowering the sail quickly. Tightening the shrouds locks the lower section of the rig relatively straight and requires more tension on the sail controls to induce mast bend.
is it possible to put tacking angles against each of those speed to sail rows?
Hi Markla, I did not give any tacking angles because I don't think they are useful for sailing Moths. Most of us use a speedpuck with only speed. It is nice to have a target we should try to sail to without reaching off the course. But in general probably as wide as 55deg in light wind and at best 40-45deg in stronger conditions.
I like this guide very much.
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